A Look at Resort 2011: Alexander McQueen

30Jun10

“I want to continue everything Lee did but also bring a sense of lightness and femininity to it,” Sarah Burton related as she was putting together her first collection as creative director of Alexander McQueen. She was working (as she has been for the fourteen years she assisted the designer) in an inspiration- and textile-rich studio ordered exactly as it was when he left it, and with intimate knowledge of executing his techniques and silhouettes. For the spring pre-collection, she reached for some of the research and art references McQueen loved: Hans Bellmer’s sinister doll drawings and samurai armor. Much of the work McQueen and his team generated over the years, she says, was laid aside while other ideas were isolated and magnified to make shows, so there is plenty to go on.

For this season, Burton’s looks reinforce McQueen’s reputation for strong shoulders and paneled torsos—but she’s dropped the waist and emphasized swishy fit-and-flare movement in skirts. Still, the outstanding piece is a ravishing long red strapless chiffon dress with a giant poppy print and an airy train. It has all the impact of a McQueen heritage dress—made in the knowledge of what would look sensational, say, on the Met staircase—and is clearly informed by Burton’s background as the print student McQueen plucked from Central Saint Martins to become his right arm.

via Fashion: Vogue’s Daily Coverage of Fashion, Beauty, Parties and More.

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